For my grant project, I chose to work with Chef Josh Niland at Saint Peter in Sydney, NSW, Australia. On my personal chef journey, I have learned that seafood is my favorite thing to eat, but the bounty of possibility has also turned it into my favorite thing to cook. What Chef Josh and his team have been creating for the past 8 years has not only been delicious, but his philosophy on whole fish butchery has reshaped the way the entire world should look at a piece of fish. While most restaurants only utilize around 45-55% of a whole fish, Chef Josh has found ways to increase that yield to an average of 90%! During my time at Saint Peter, my entire mentality around how we eat and cook seafood has shifted. The technique and applications that Chef Josh has put into practice between his four restaurants is second to none, and I am incredibly excited to bring what I have learned back to Acamaya in New Orleans. An opportunity like this is once in a lifetime.
When I first arrived at Saint Peter, I was informed that the restaurant would be re-opening in a new location at the Grand National Hotel. Not only would I be able to see two iterations of Saint Peter, but during the transition period, I was going to be sent to work at Fish Butchery Waterloo.
Any anxiety I had being in this new situation was lifted as I got to know my coworkers, whose talent and kindness knew no bounds. They were eager to teach me, and I was eager to learn. I got to work closely with a small team, cooking for 40 guests a night. The product we used was beautiful and the space was intimate. I couldn’t imagine how a restaurant could be any more wonderful. However the best was yet to come.
Around the third week of my stage, we closed Saint Peter, and moved around the corner to reopen in a larger space. I was lucky enough to be in Sydney to see this five year project come to fruition. During this time, I was sent to work at the fish butchery for 3 days. We took whole fish and removed the guts, saving desirable offal such as liver, fat, milt, spleens and hearts for numerous applications. I learned how to knife-scale fish, and the unique process Chef Josh’s team uses to prolong the shelf life of such an expensive product. All of the fish we received followed the Japanese ikejime technique. Very impressively, from the moment the fish are removed from the ocean, they never again touch water. We never rinsed a fish in the sink, or kept it fresh on ice. Everything from the gutting and scaling process, to the fileting process was wiped clean with towels, keeping the fish clean and dry. Once ready to age, all of the fish are hung from beams in one of three large walk-in coolers, allowing for full circulation and even drying. The dry aging process of fish allows for fat to rise closer to the surface of the skin, emphasizing the unique taste of each individual fish. Being able to taste this difference in real time, for example a 12 day dry-aged tuna to a 20 day dry-aged tuna, was spectacular. Each fish had a perfect point of aging, and some, such as sardines perfect on day one, were never aged at all.
After my time at the butchery, I returned to Saint Peter for staff training. Our first day began with a trip 2 hours north of Sydney to Newcastle Greens. This was a stunning, small family run farm in the Australian bush. The day was a magical experience of getting to know the new team members, taste beautiful vegetables right from the soil, and see the entire process of growing what would soon be on our plates. It was a fun break from the intensity of the kitchen, but the next day we got to work.
During the last month in the new Saint Peter space, I was able to see the team grow from just five in the kitchen, to a crew of 12, including a spectacular pastry team. Working alongside all of these chefs, who consistently pushed themselves to come in every day and work harder and faster than the one before, inspired me to work smarter, faster, and more passionately than I ever had before. I cannot wait to see where each of them ends up on their journeys, and I consider them lifelong friends. The old Saint Peter was special in its own way, but this new restaurant was something deserving of the world stage. As luck would have it, my timing couldn't have been any better. Restaurants in Australia garner ratings through the Australian Good Food Guide Hat rating system.
The previous Saint Peter had 2 hats, which is already exceptional. During my time at the Grand National Hotel space, we were aware that the reviewers had come to dine with us multiple times, and were anxiously awaiting a review. On the morning of my final service with the team, Chef Josh let out a cheer. Saint Peter had received a third hat, now only the 4th restaurant in all of New South Wales to gain this incredible honor. It felt so special to a part of the team that attained something so special. We knew it would be a difficult service, with 70 reservations at lunch, 65 at dinner, and an untold number of walk-ins at the bar, but the news of a third hat brought everyone into high spirits, and it was one of the most amazing days of work I have ever experienced. We ended service with a champagne toast, and I went home that night grinning from ear to ear.
I finished my trip by taking myself to dinner at the newly 3-hatted Saint Peter. To be on the other side of the kitchen was a beautiful experience. The hospitality was second to none. The food was perfect, in every sense of the word. Each dish was better than I had expected. Being able to taste the care that went into every touch, without having to worry about the next task at hand allowed me to really think about what I was tasting, and how miraculous this experience was for each guest that walked through the doors.
The amount I learned throughout my Ment’or grant experience was overwhelming. I learned from Chef Josh, CDC Joe Greenwood, Sous Chef Kieran Bellerby and Group Chef Ben Torrance how to lead a team with flexibility and kindness. They expected a lot from each and every team member, but were incredibly fair, and an absolute joy to work alongside. The sense of achievement I felt after completing a stage that included a restaurant opening, a butcher experience, and a 3-hat honor cannot be described. I now know how far I can push myself and those around me to create something spectacular. I have seen what I can achieve if I really apply myself, and cannot wait to bring this energy back to the U.S.A. with me. I see limitless possibilities with what we can attain from a single fish. Throughout my career, I hope to continue this mission of reducing waste, and sustainability. With the new techniques and styles I have attained, I cannot wait to return home and apply them to the cuisine of Louisiana.
Above: team photo after my meal at Saint Peter, below (L): Coral trout, Nasturtium, and Smoked Eel sauce, sidecar of Crumbed Hapuka milt (C): Whole fish Paté en Croute with Port Jelly and (R): Coral trout, Nasturtium, and Smoked Eel sauce, sidecar of Crumbed Hapuka milt
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